Tuesday, May 9, 2023

Addressing some questions that came through the comments

Cinco en Mayo

 

"What kind of trap are you using to catch woodchucks?

Link

I am using 160(mm) body-grip traps. Some people call all body-grip traps "Conibears" but that is a brand name. I believe that I bought a dozen of them from eBay, either Victor or Duke brand. The size of the "square" is 160mm and it is well suited to catching woodchucks and raccoons. The 220 might be even better but they really, really, really hurt if the bite you.

I place the trap over an active burrow and use two pieces of rebar (or something similar) to position them. I angle the rebar so it forms an "A". I typically use the middle notch of the dog and don't fully engage it, just enough to hold it plus a little bit more.

The classic raccoon set is to use a bucket (square ones like kitty-litter or frosting-from-the-bakery buckets preferred) and set the trap in front of the bucket. Throw anything in the bucket that will attract raccoons: Marshmallows, old donuts, slice of white-bread, old banana, dried dog-food, dried corn, fish carcasses, cat food, hot-dogs....

The LAST thing I do after setting the trap is to remove the hooks that will hold the springs if the trigger trips.

The springs are compressed with a scissors-like device. I paint mine bright, fluorescent colors because they become invisible the instant you lay them on the ground.

This guy uses a snare to catch groundhogs.

His rational is that live meat does not spoil.

Booster pumps

Link one HP

PSI boost on the horizontal axis and gpm on the vertical axis.

Since most domestic, submersible pumps are 1/2hp and can deliver a nominal 11gpm at 40psi, it makes no sense to look at the highest flow rates. Your main pump cannot supply that amount of volume.

So if you were to fiddle around with the sprinklers and decided you could spare 1/2 of your main-pump's output (say six gpm) then the 1/2hp pump would boost the pressure by about 15ps and the 1hp pump by about 45psi. The reason the number is more than double the 1/2hp pump is that smaller pumps typically have higher losses due to leakage around impeller blades.

A 1hp motor draws a nominal 750 Watts and the 1/2hp motor should draw about 400 Watts (excuse me for rounding). A 16 gauge extension cord can easily handle these loads.

The way you would tune in the system would be to take a five gallon bucket and a stop watch. You would run a length of hose similar to your mental picture has between the spigot and where you want to place the pump. You would time how long it takes to fill the five gallon bucket. You would do this several times to ensure you captured the slowest fill-time.

You do not want the booster pump to exceed the flow-rate of the slowest fill time or the pump will cavitate which is bad for pump life.

Then you would install the pump and additional runs of hose (perhaps with switchable, "Y" connectors). You would stick your impulse sprinkler into your five gallon bucket and see how long it takes to fill up with the pump on. If it is significantly less than the lowest time recorded in your free-flowrate test, then add another impulse sprinkler (by switching another arm of the "Y" fitting on).

Continue adding impulse sprinklers until you are just below your free-flowrate number.

I like to put the individual impulse sprinklers on Tee-posts to get them up, above vegetation. I tie the feed hose to the Tee-post to create a goose-neck such that the weight of the hose does not kink it.

When I am at the top of my game, I might have four impulse sprinklers set up with three, switchable "Y" fittings so I can run two at a time and then switch to the other two with a couple of changes to the switches on the Ys.

Calibrating

Place some large, flat pans like lasagna pans at locations that are close, medium distance and extreme distance (6, 20 and 35 feet, for instance) from the Tee-post. Run the sprinkler for four hours and then eye-ball how much water is in each pan. Adjust the feathering screw and/or the visor on the impulse sprinkler to balance flow. Dump pans. Run again. Repeat until the pans are close to the same fill-rate. It will look like you are pumping WAY too much out far and way too little in close.

You will have to run the sprinklers far longer than you think. At 5 gallons a minute you will need about 5.5 hours to put 1" of water on to two, 40' diameter circles and 8 hours to put that amount on two, 50' diameter circles.

5 comments:

  1. A well pump is a pain to service. I want it to be as robust as possible, ideally two of them in the well, so that failure is not an emergency.

    Water use is typically stochastic. A well pump need not be. If even a 3GPM pump runs constantly, that's alot of water, if you have somewere to put it. An above ground holding tank, allows the use of more affordable and robust well pumps, while still permitting occasional much larger GPM demands. Keeping the tank near the wellhead, keeps the "head" which the well pump must service to a minimum, reducing it's load and increasing it's delivery rate, but makes for lower gravity pressure from the tank to the house (assuming higher hillsides are available). A boost pump above ground (easily serviced) at the tank head brings the pressure up. It can feed a pressure tank, or better still that second tank on a higher hill, which if large enough, means even a booster pump failure is not an emergency.

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  3. You will find your "Y" connections severely cut your flow rate.

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    Replies
    1. Hence the importance of actually measuring the water coming out of the impulse sprinkler by running them into five gallon buckets and using a stop-watch.

      Theory can suggest avenues of inquiry. Data is the judge of what works.

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    2. I'm curious, how much difference did you measure? Flow rate and pressure drop?

      Delete

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