|The function of the trigger, as a mechanism, is determined by the distance between the pivot-pin and all of the locations where forces are applied or resisted|
Sometimes, less is more.
All of the locks and door knobs in my house are made by Schlage Lock.
In one case I had the opportunity to shorten up the bolt of a dead-bolt lock for some reason that I cannot remember.
I was surprised to see a free-floating, hardened steel rod inside the bolt.
After a tiny bit of thought, it occurred to me that a free-floating pin is free to spin. That rod is almost impossible to cut with a Sawz-all or even a grinder. Both tools require that the surface being cut be stationary so there can be relative velocity between the teeth or the abrasive.
If the rod is unconstrained so it can spin freely, it will happily spin within the bolt-proper until the cows come home.
Sure, an enterprising thief can fill the space in the dead-bolt with expanding foam or cut from one direction and then jam in a screwdriver blade to trap the rod...and attack from the other direction. Alternatively, the thief can attack the bolt on-the-bias with his abrasive wheel. All of those strategies take longer and increase the exposure of the thief to being noticed.
The key point is that the lock was "hardened" by removing structure (or a constraint), not by adding more.
Triggers and marksmanship
One tip that I picked up at The Art of the Rifle blog was to move my trigger hand grip forward so the only contact points between my hand and the pistol grip are the ham-of-my-thumb and the pads of my fingers. The shooter is essentially pinching the pistol grip between those two parts of his hand. It made a big difference in my field accuracy.
"Gripping" the pistol grip imparts a torque on the stock and the stock squirms at the break of the trigger. The "pinch grip" described above does not impart a torque.
Combine those two thoughts...
What if the pivot-pin of the trigger were replaced with a ball-joint or a Heim joint?
The current setup allows the shooter to create a torsional equilibrium between his trigger finger and the rest of his "grip". When the trigger breaks, then the equilibrium is broken and the stock can shift or jump ever-so-slightly as the lock trips and the firing pin detonates the primer.
And then there is the temptation to jerk the trigger.
What if it was impossible to put side-load on the trigger because it would simple track to the side-of-center? That is, the trigger would not resist forces in that direction. It would be up to the shooter to train his trigger finger to moved aft direction with no side-forces.
As Jeff Cooper once noted, we do not rise to the occasion when we are under stress. Rather, we regress to the level of training that we have mastered. So this gimballed or ball-joint pivot trigger is likely to have more value as a training tool because we certainly don't want the trigger to drift outside of the trigger guard where twigs could snag on it.
But I find it an interesting mental exercise. Maybe those "accuritizing kits" that shim the trigger to remove side-slop are exactly the wrong way to go. The trigger might feel better and more precise, but perhaps the results (especially when the adrenalin is flowing) might be to have the trigger loosy-goosy in the "Y" direction so jerking the trigger will not hose your aim.