$40 for 500 feet of poly tubing. |
An additional $60 bucks for assorted doo-dads. |
$25 of the sixty dollars went into the filter and hardware to adapt it to incoming garden hose (left side) and two 1/2" poly outlets (right side). |
Then it was a matter of stretching poly pipe, putting flushable end-pieces on the dead ends and pressing in emitters. I found it easier to insert the emitters when the line was under pressure. |
Second vertical line is 15psi. Sixth vertical line is 45psi. Data from HERE |
I am pretty happy about how it went. I still have 40 emitters left and am thinking about doing the same for the pears planted out front. I will be able to save about $20 if I move the filter assembly to whichever area I am irrigating.
Bill of Material
500 feet, 1/2" black poly irrigation tubing (about $40)
90, Rainbird, 2 gallon/hour emitters (3 packages of 30 at $7.11 each)
One Rainbird emitter installation tool (about $5)
One package of two, 1/2" compression Tee fittings ($3.99 for two)
One 3/4" "hose" female to 3/4" NPF female fitting, brass ($8)
One 200 mesh filter, 3/4" NPF male both ends ($10)
One 3/4" NPF female-to-3/4" "hose" male fitting ($1.55)
One 3/4" "hose" female, to two 1/2" female compression fittings ($5)
Four Universal 1/2" flush caps ($3.59 each)
Depending on soil, 2g/hr. will only wet a small area. Did you put 3 emitters per tree? You can use short lengths of spaghetti tubing from the emitters to the other side of the tree. I don't use self flushing caps as I like to get the pipe really clean once in awhile - especially after installation. I usually just bend the end of the pipe over itself and either tape it tight or slip a sleeve (a 4" section of 1 1/2" pvc pipe over the bend. Works well.
ReplyDeleteThe soil is nominally Marlette Loam (https://soilseries.sc.egov.usda.gov/OSD_Docs/M/MARLETTE.html).
DeleteMy biggest concern, at this point, is sizing up my smaller trees and growing their canopies to fill their allotted space. I positioned the single emitter about 12 inches from the trunk.
The current literature seems to favor frequent waterings and to not use the buffering capacity of the soil. I don't understand why.
I agree that the moistened area will be narrow and deep. Since it will not move, the trees (supposedly) will fill the volume with many feeder roots.
Thanks for writing.