Well, here we go again with regard to southern states getting pounded with very cold weather.
Share your best "tips" in comments.
Discussion starters:
- Preparing your home
- Draining plumbing
- Antifreeze for traps
- Moving to generate heat
- Staying out of the wind
- Novel materials for stuffing into cracks to reduce cold air infiltration
- Diet
- When to bail in, when to bail out
- Strategies for using vehicle
- Fill your gas tank(s) NOW!!!
Gratuitous "Hot Chicks" picture
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| All the cool bloggers tell me that pictures of hot chicks increase traffic. We will see. |
"naked chicks" really bring em in.
ReplyDeleteWear multiple lighter layers instead of a heavy layer. less perspirations and easier to adjust for comfort. Outside wind proof and moisture wicking in more important then heat retention. Covering your face can be important but remember that the areas around the mouth and nose will become saturated leading to chapped lips and face.
ReplyDeleteI want to add that you can wear multiple Tee-shirts beneath your outer clothes. Neither the Bible nor the Constitution prohibits it...but it seldom occurs to folks to do so.
DeleteHang blankets over windows and doors, pile leaves up over exposed or minimally covered water supply. Keep a banked fire going in fire place. Buy a kerosun heater use it open the cabinet doors closest to pipes running in exterior walls so that heat from interior will help prevent freezing.
DeleteDo not run your generator indoors. Don't heat your house with a gas oven/stove on over night with no electricity. Do not run your car in your garage with the door closed (or even half open).
ReplyDeleteEven when you're cold, even when it's just to charge your phone for a bit.
Enough blankets, clothing, pillows, insulation will protect you as long as you are dry and out of the wind i.e. indoors. You might be miserable, but you'll live. A tiny amount of CO can cause perm. brain damage or death, and kids/pets are even more susceptible.
Run motors/non-indoor rated heaters outdoors. Do not run indoors.
Some heaters are indoor rated, probably sold out now in places with bad weather coming, but for next time.
In emergency situations, close off as many rooms in the house as possible, heat your living space. We keep a 2 burner gas cooktop on the porch and can prepare meals on that if necessary. During a long outage, we took some food out of the fridge and freezer and kept in a cooler, instead of opening the fridge door many times each day.
ReplyDeleteSouthern NH
The bottom of the water heater usually has a drain which is the lowest point, in many houses, that is accessible.
ReplyDeleteThe pipes can be drained by turning off the water service and opening up all of the hot and cold taps (to break the vacuum). Then attach a hose to the drain on the bottom of the water heater and run end of hose to a sump or a bucket. Then crack the valve. If using buckets, uncrack valve and hump out full bucket. Repeat as necessary.
Flush toilets until tanks are drained. Use plunger to work out as much water as possible out of the traps. Add RV antifreeze to tanks and traps. Salt can be used in a pinch to lower the freezing point.
Remember to close the tap on the bottom of the water heater before bringing the plumbing back into service.
It is good practice to turn off the breaker to the water heater before you drain it.
DeleteIf you empty the P-traps sewer-septic gases will enter the house and that's a big no no. Besides, what's the point? Putting antifreeze in a septic system will kill the biomat in the drainfield and you'll be looking at a $10k repair.
DeleteFoil bubble wrap is excellent for insulating windows after you block all those drafts. Even high-tech windows are poorly insulated at best.
ReplyDeleteCovering the windows with curtains or blankets makes a huge difference, at least in our rooms with them. Especially on older houses or houses that have not have their windows replaced since the initial dual pane glass installation at build out. At least for our living room, it makes a huge and noticeable difference.
ReplyDeleteAll plastic grocery bags is wonderful insulation. No cutting required. Just get a butter knife and stuff all cracks in the doors and windows.
ReplyDeleteFolks in the south have a very different situation than those up in the frost-belt. Many of the homes are not winterized to a great extent. If you're in this situation, remember this: Cover your outdoor faucets. If you have enclosed outdoor plumbing - like an outdoor sink, for instance - just remember the incandescent light bulb is your friend. A 100w bulb generates quite a bit of heat~! I leave one turned on under the sink, one in the water heater enclosure, one in the pump house, etc. If you can't do this, then turn the faucet on to a slow drip; moving water generally doesn't freeze unless it's super cold (teens °F). The 'leave on drip' also works with your indoor sinks, if your plumbing runs through an unheated attic. During 'Freeze-a-mageddon 2021' our indoor plumbing briefly froze up but I was able to get it running again, fortunately. We have PEX type water lines, so it can withstand a freeze. PVC is what gets most folks in the south - it cracks when frozen then gushes with the thaw.
ReplyDeletemost of the time, simply leaving the tap open will allow for enough expansion to keep the pipes from braking......it gives the expansion somewhere to go. Closed end pipes, or faucets that are closed don't allow for expansion.
DeleteHave supplies for the inevitable broken water lines. I'm rather fond of the SharkBite fittings. I keep caps and valves in 1/2 and 3/4. If I have to, I can simply isolate the problem areas and address them at a better time.
DeleteAnd of course all the standard Weather Disaster apply. Get batteries; Check the antifreeze; Fill the tanks on all vehicles; Fill the gas cans, use a stabilizer; Fill your propane tanks and make sure the Outdoor BBQ is in working order as a cooking backup, same for your generator. Ensure adequate food for 2 weeks; Ensure adequate drinking water/drinks for same; Check First Aid kits; Check your prescriptions and refill if possible;
ReplyDeleteso does those plastic Walmart bags if you still live in a freedom state.
ReplyDeletePipe insulation can help last out short cold weather events, even a pool noodle slit lengthways can cover pipes in poorly insulated areas like crawl-spaces and buy time. 3M also sells window tape (to go around trim and walls at the edges) that is clear and doesn't remove finish from trim or paint (much) and can cut drafts down considerably.
ReplyDeleteMake sure you fill or get filled propane cylinders if you have a grill. That can save you for cooking when power is out. And yes, plastic bags for stuffing 'holes' that allow the wind in.
ReplyDeleteA can of HEET or equivalent is a great idea in car gas tanks.
ReplyDeleteSalt in a sink trap will work to keep the freezing down, but may eat metal trap pipes long term.
Bottle of Captain Morgan, 3 packs of cigarettes, a 12 pack of coca-cola, bucket of KFC. BRING IT!!!
ReplyDeleteAll kidding aside, booze is NOT a good idea. It makes you feel warm by increasing blood-flow to your skin but results in your core body temperature dropping.
DeleteCelebrate AFTER the temps rise above freezing.
Buy a good hat that covers your ears. The Yooper Chook is good. Its heaviest version is superb.
ReplyDeleteBuy a coat that is oversized and covers your waistline, preferably one that the zipper can be opened from both ends to prevent overheating.
Kanik US-Can boots are best.
Mittens are best, gauntlet style with replacement wool liners.
Wool scarves will save your face.
You can have pretty winter clothes, or warm winter clothes.
One or the other.
If you look good, you’re gonna be cold.
A million thanks for all of the great suggestions.
ReplyDeletePlease feel free to keep adding to them.
-Joe
If you have to drive, make sure you have an emergency kit. A warm blanket, a first aid kit, some snacks, and bottled water will be very useful if something happens, or if someone else needs help.
ReplyDeleteChicks in a hot tub?
ReplyDeleteAnti-freeze as we know it could become a scarce item. Alcohol will function as an antifreeze, as will salt dissolved in water. Any salt will work such as calcium chloride with varying effects. A trap or pipe filled with salt water may still freeze, but the resultant slush may not break the pipe. Be aware salt and chlorides will accelerate rust in an engine.
ReplyDeleteFind the lowest point in the plumbing system and install a drain valve (this may turn out to be the meter output connection at the street, turn off the meter inlet valve FIRST, then loosening the output connection for a few minutes will allow draining THEN RETIGHTEN IMMEDIATELY - leaving it loose will cause major problems when you turn the water back on and may allow water line contamination). If water pressure fails the "maintain a slight drip" method will not work, and if power fails you may not have a heating system, draining the entire plumbing system may be the only way to avoid ruptured pipes from freezing. Open all faucets above the drain and do not forget to flush each toilet to open the water lines to each toilet to atmosphere to allow draining. An inch or two of rigid styrofoam under the meter box lid will help retain ground heat and reduce
ReplyDeletethe possibility of freezing. A "quick fix" is to put a couple solid (not perforated) doormats over the meter box lid.
RV antifreeze in sink & tub traps will prevent freezing. Ditto for toilets. Covering toilet bowls tightly with clear plastic (wide food service rolls of food wrap work well) will slow evaporation from the bowl tremendously but it will still evaporate, although much more slowly, because of the plumbing vent system.
Flexible PEX will withstand freezing; plastic PEX connectors will not.
Disconnect hoses from "self draining" outdoor faucets, water in the hose may prevent the faucet from draining fully.
Condensate drains from attic-mounted AC air handlers may need RV anti freeze in the trap.
Wireless thermometer sending units adjacent to "worry spots" prone to freezing can alert you to an impending problem. FYI, water freezes at 32F but starts expanding at 33F just prior to freezing. Anything at or below 36F is a "worry spot." Don't forget water lines in garages (EX: to/from water heaters, clothes washers, etc.) are exposed to freezing temps when the garage door is left open.
Here’s one I just learned. If your gear includes a small alcohol stove (and it should) don’t use denatured alcohol in an enclosed area. It’s more expensive, but use Everclear booze. No headache causing fumes, and it can also be used for sterilizing wounds. Consumption was addressed, above.
ReplyDeleteA ceramic flower pot suspended inverted and a tea candle under it can put out a surprising amount of heat. Try not to burn the place down or suffocate yourself.
ReplyDeleteS.v.
If you've procrastinated getting a generator transfer switch, use a pool noodle to insulate the gap in a window if you need to run cords inside. It reduces heat loss.
ReplyDeletebubble wrap can be applied to windows as an effective insulation that allows daylight to come in. Cut to size, spritz a bit of water on one side and smooth up onto the glass. The little bit of water will keep the bubble wrap adhered for longer than you would believe
ReplyDeleteFor those folks in an RV, we are in a different state doing our best to help my Son who is sick. We are in an RV and while it is a newer model with excellent insulation, this extreme cold may exceed the RV's best efforts. A few things we have done to prepare.
ReplyDelete1. Purchased a heated water supply hose, keeps the water from freezing before it gets to the trailer.
2. Insulated the camp water supply where it comes up from the ground.
I had extra leaf bags and lots of time over the last three days, we are out in the woods and have LOTS of leaves. Bagged bunches and stacked the bags over the water supply point and stacked and tied the bags around the base of the RV to block the wind.
3. Plenty of blankets to stuff around the slide out joints and doors, insulation board, and drapes cover all the windows.
We shall see how much this helps, but it kept me busy for a couple of days.
Forecast for our area, winds 10-20 with gusts up to 30Kts, low temps down to zero high Friday in the teens.
All of this works as long as the power stays on, if the power goes out, the truck has a full tank and we are prepared to bug out if necessary.
MSG Grumpy
Leaf bags!!! That is inspired!! Great Idea.
DeleteGet foam insulation board cut it to size and use it to close off the gap between your rv and the ground. This will keep cold air from circulating under your rv. You would be surprised how much heat you lose through the floor.
DeleteI sure hope the readers here take all this into account and prepare accordingly. It doesn't apply to me since I'm a Floridian and with events like this, it reminds me why.
ReplyDeleteUse ethafoam insulation tubes in sliding doors where power cords from the generator enter the house. They're in the Plumbing section, sold as pipe wrap. You'll need pipe insulation for both sides of your sliding door.
ReplyDeleteFrom working on oil rigs in Wyoming I learned that you lose most of your heat through your head, like heat going up a chimney. If you’re cold, put on a hat, a beanie or watch cap. If you’re still cold put on a second hat. If you’re still cold put on a third. You just gotta stop that heat loss through the head. It might look funny but it really works.
ReplyDeleteif your car is having trouble getting up to operating temp using a piece of cardboard to temporarily block off half or more of the radiator helps, also make sure all your valve stems have caps on them, freezing water or mud around your valve core can release air and give you a flat in the morning
ReplyDeleteDONT forget your pets. Water, food, warmth.
ReplyDeleteleave the cabinets under your sinks open to allow ambient heat to get at the waterlines. If electric service is still up, a halogen work lamp in the crawl space can't hurt, either.
ReplyDeleteAll wonderful suggestions. Thank you, everyone, for sharing your knowledge.
ReplyDelete