Sunday, October 13, 2024

Full-sized fruit trees vs Dwarf trees

From a commercial, economic perspective there is absolutely no comparison. Dwarf trees produce income (to service debt) within two or three years while "full-sized" trees start later and ramp-up production more gradually than dwarf trees.

For most home-growers, semi-dwarf trees neatly split the difference between the economic advantages of the dwarf trees and the low maintenance of the standard trees. An added advantage is that most fruit on a semi-dwarf can be harvested while standing on the ground. The smaller trees offer the ability to plant a portfolio of varieties or different species. In the space a fully mature McIntosh apple takes up, you can plant six dwarf trees or 3 semi-dwarf trees.

Further advantages of planting multiple, smaller trees is that you can have a symphony of fruits ripening at different times and avoid an untimely deluge. Also, if your one standard-sized tree dies you get no fruit. If one-of-three semi-dwarf trees die you have a drop in production but you can replant and still have most of your production while the new tree fills its allotted space.  

All that said, there are places for "standard" fruit trees. In the typical orchard, there are some varieties of apples (like Hazen and Wealthy)  that stay small even on standard roots. Most Asian pears also fall into that category and so do peaches.

In a "forest" setting, fruit trees are typically edge species. If you are so inclined, there is nothing wrong with planting the edges of your wood-lot with full-sized apples and pears and chestnut trees. Because of the time-constraints of putting a small-holding to bed for the winter, it is best to choose very late maturing varieties that hang well on the tree. That way they will be waiting for you when you get a break in your other chores. Those kinds of fruit tend to store well in a root-cellar (with a low investment in your time compared to canning) or cider/juice (fermented or not).

Image credit Permaculture Visions

If you are into Permaculture, I am describing a Zone 4 or Zone 5 where you will visit it maybe 10 times throughout the year.

Three varieties of apples that fit-the-bill include Golden Russet, Keepsake and GoldRush. Or you can plant seedlings and thin out the ones that don't meet your management objectives.

2 comments:

  1. Many years ago, Ed Laivo, who was then the head propagator at Dave Wilson Nurseries, penned an article on dwarf/semidwarf/standard rootstocks, on the premise that people had no clue... they knew about pygmys and ponies, but really nothing about fruit rootstocks and size.
    Even dwarfs here reach 8-10 ft. Typical catalog description for most semi-dwarf trees say something like 12-18 ft... that's taller than a one-story home; you may need a bucket truck.
    Standard rootstock... tree will be as big as an apartment complex... please purchase additional property.
    His take-home message was that ultimately, YOU are in charge of how big your fruit trees get. Prune, Prune, PRUNE!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yes. Absolutely true. And some rootstocks and scion-varieties are much easier to keep to a given size.

      One problem I encountered was that my failure to limit the height of the trees caused the graft to break during a late-summer thunder-storm.

      There are LOTS of good reasons to prune. But that happens downstream of the decision to plant a tree(s).

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