Tuesday, March 29, 2022

Cooking with low-quality, or small amounts of meat

I reached out to Andrew Walters, a professional chef who lives in the Napa Valley and asked the following questions:

"My question to you is...If you were to purchase spices and flavorings to tuck away for a rainy day...and if you expected meat to be scarce and of low quality; what spices and flavors would you select.

  • Long shelf-life is a MAJOR plus.
  • Leveraging or magnifying umami is awesome.
  • Modest price per flavor impact is a good point.
  • Compactness can come into play for things like soy sauce. Can you get dehydrated and rehydrate with water and vinegar?
  • Some spices are switch hitters. Ginger, for instance.
  • Some are so easy to grow (like garlic) that small amounts could be included with the expectation local resupply will happen."

I was surprised and delighted when he responded.

Fascinating. Hadn't thought of some of this.

Whole spices are preferable, since you can lightly toast them and grind them as needed to wake them up.

Vacuum sealers and those moisture absorbing packets will be vital.

You can get all manner of liquids in dehydrated form thanks to the usage of maltodextrin. Can do it yourself but you can find literally dehydrated soy sauce on Amazon even. Spice Lab makes a lot of good stuff.

Those powdered liquids do NOT enjoy humidity at all, they'll clump and harden fast. Again vacuum sealing small quantities is the way to go. (Mason jars with the packets works, but isn't as compact.)

Dried mushrooms are a great source for the umami angle too.

What spices to keep is kind of a personal angle I guess, but for low quality meats, I'd opt for the more potent warm spice like clove, cinnamon, star anise... Makes for a great stew. (We use those for our bourguignon)

Vinegars can be made from just leftover alcohol even (if there is any). Collecting the end of a bottle of wine, or brew a malty beer just to let acetobacter turn it to vinegar over time. Won't go bad. 

Stews are probably easiest to start with. You have me thinking about availability of things I take for granted now. I'd want to go red wine and tomato heavy for the stew base. Tomato is straightforward enough to save for the winter, and the wine can be switched for whatever is brewing (a malty beer would probably do the trick). Beyond that it's basic root vegetables or whatever is on hand for the season. Small amounts of spices go a long way, star anise and cinnamon are powerful in a stew or braise.

I asked about rabbit. Rabbit is a staple in French cooking. One reason is that you can be dirt poor and still keep rabbits. An invading army can carry off your cattle and pigs and eat all of your chickens and it will be years before you recover. If you can trap a few wild (European) rabbits then you can be producing meat in a very short time because they reach breeding age quickly.

Thinking on the wild game aspect... I don't suppose you have any interest in butter making. Or know people who do. I'm currently making about 30# of cultured butter a week, and that gives an astonishing amount of buttermilk as a byproduct. More than one would typically need. Great for baking (cakes, breads, biscuits), ice cream (because we all have ice cream churns in the apocalypse), and fantastic to use as a brine for meat. Fairly high acidity, combine with a small amount of salt and some other flavorings (Wild thyme, foraged garlic kind of stuff). It can tame the "Game" flavor and also help keep the meat from drying out during cooking, which rabbit in particular is prone to because they're just so dang tiny.

Editorial note: The lactic acid in buttermilk is useful in preserved meats like summer sausage where it can lower the pH to reduce the likelihood of botulism growing. The organism that generates the toxin that causes Botulism, Clostridium botulinum, was named after sausages, botulus being Latin for sausage since cured sausages were a very common host for the bacteria.

In this dystopian future, the lack of reliable electricity and the loss of inexpensive fuel means that people will not have leisure time and the time required to walk or bike to a restaurant or return home for lunch will be a non-starter. The idea of "cold cuts" for quick or transportable meals is great. (Joe replying to Chef Walters)

So I would be inclined to suggest a rabbit confit. Pieces salt cured and cooked in fat (probably duck fat to be honest, can be strained and re used) but the finished product can be stored anaerobically under the fat in the traditional french method. Dig out when needed. The meat can be picked, could be fried up in whole pieces or used in stews, or even whipped with a bit of fat and made into "potted" meat, topped with a cap of fat to seal out the air. (Rielletes! That's the word. Took me a min here at the bar to find the word ) This works great as long as ambient temperatures are low or some form of refrigeration (ice) is available.

Chef Walters patiently replied to my off-the-wall questions. If this post seems a little bit disjoint, it is my fault. It is pieced together from a few different emails. Chef Walters was graciously responding but it was after working a long shift.

13 comments:

  1. Did the or can the Chef refer your readers to any articles or books on confit as a preservation method? I've been looking for a long time for such - most books/articles discuss confit as a cooking method, not preservation method.

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    1. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yUYgguMz1qI
      Historical Egg preservation

      Potted (i.e. Confit) Beef
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SdKzWQOVET4

      Potted Salmon
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tXh_VT5ygOY

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  2. Kudos to the Chef! Excellent info, let him know more ideas would be appreciated by many of us. Storing meat under a thick layer of fat in a cool spot was a very common method in the Mid-West right up to WWII. We still use it although it is in the refrigerator now.

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  3. You got me thinking and right now the ramps are sprouting in my neck of the woods 200 miles due south of Eaton Rapids . Since I have been judiciously harvesting them these past 40 years we now have them in abundance and I think I will harvest and dry much more this year .

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  4. Kudos to him! And now I'm thinking about how/what to stock up...

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  6. Around two and a half years before the pandemic crap hit it seemed like we were going through an awful lot of black peppercorns. Out of idle curiosity I decided to measure our use and couldn't believe the outcome (spoiler alert it was almost four and a half ounces per person per year). So much for using it as a barter item. Other measurements occurred. While this goes against one of Joe's previous posts on making your food taste good without lots of seasonings, Its my opinion that having lots of seasoning on hand is a good not bad idea. I'm not shilling for wally s but there version of Worcestershire sauce not only tastes like the real thing(during the pandemic they had a look alike bottle that was horrid)it is packed in GLASS bottles and will keep darned near forever and is cheaper than the other 2 or 3 named brands. Garlic was mentioned and while I came to the party late it really isn't unusual for us to go through 4 or 5 heads in a week. Let us pretend that I overestimated and its only 125 heads that you'll need. That means you'll need to successfully grow not only the garlic you use but next years garlic as well and we still go through a 26oz bottle of granulated garlic every year. Worse yet you cant just pop it out of the ground and keep it till next year... it has to be cured. Ginger is kind of the same. I'm told it grows easily but you have to keep in mind the next year, you cant eat the seed corn and have it for planting. I assure you that it is both cheaper and easier to BUY vinegar than it is to make it. If things hit the skids leftover(anything)booze of any type wont be as easy to lay your hands on as you might think. My wife either rolls her eyes or asks "why do we need 6 bottles of cooking oil or 20lbs of salt or you have 20 bottles of herbs/spices don't you think that's enough(well, I do use probably 20 different herbs/spices so it was only only one per extra.)I would like to point out the lady on the tubz tah suggests dehydrating tomatoes,peppers and summer squash then powdering them. The tomatoes will let you make pizza sauce or any of the red sauce variations. Just be aware that all the powders love to suck water from the air so I wouldn't keep all my eggs in one or a few baskets as it were.

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  7. The "Stocking UP" series is chock full of useful information. I have 1 and 3 and used them extensively when I had my place out in the country. I even used the crock preservation method to preserve sausage patties in pork fat one winter.
    https://www.amazon.com/Stocking-Up-Iii-Carol-Hupping/dp/0878576134
    I would also suggest the "Foxfire" Books also for old time food preservation techniques.
    Other than the Zon I use this place for bulk spices and teas, etc. been using them for years with no issues.
    https://www.sfherb.com
    Fantastic article. Thanks for all the hard work putting it together. I do miss Sonoma County. It was beautiful and the food offerings were fantastic.

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  8. On a recent shopping trip I noticed what hasn't increased in price (yet) is olive oil. This is good news because I use a lot of olive oil.

    It is not because I favor Mediterranean styles but because of the preservative, even medicinal, qualities of olive oil.

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  9. I just butchered 4 bunnies and cooked them up.
    they have to be pressure-canned because they are a low-acid food. Waterbath canning is not suitable.

    Bunnies reproduce by themselves (AND HOW!) and their dung is an EXCELLENT source of garden nutrients. It's also easy to collect vs Cow / pig and it does not produce as much odor.

    Bunnies are quiet and fun for little kids to play with as well.

    They can be slaughtered as it becomes time vs needing to dedicate a lot of hours to a cow or pig.

    Ya gotta make cages and do daily work diddling with them, but they are great protein.

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    1. That part about "Bunnies are quiet..." is a big deal.

      It is hard to have chickens without all your neighbors knowing.

      Rabbits can be kept discretely.

      Do you know if there are dun or brownish strains of New Zealand or California "Whites"? Just one more way to be a little less visible.

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    2. I don't have your experience / demeanor for / give a crap for classifying things. They are BIG ole bunnies.

      The biggest is named Brer and he is huge with a nice disposition - orange (light brown) colored. Probably New zealand genes in him.

      The biggest Doe is probably California sourced - she is white with a grey nose.

      I have offspring ranging from brown to black to grey and brindle, and all colors in between.

      So, Yeah.

      Methinks coloration isn't as important as breeding for temperament and meat percentage. Some are in the Sistine chapel Bunny annex of the barn and some are outdoors in the shed complex (3 side cages with open floor and front).

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    3. I was headed for the thought that they are indoors ort hidden from view anyway.

      Cage = animal = meat source, so the cages should be discreetly located for best practice at flying under the radar.

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