Garden plots are approximately 70'-by-70' and are divided by two-tracks and footpaths. Every plot has at least one side that is a two-track.
Red-clay between 24" and 60" on top of shale. Clay is thinner on sloped areas and thicker on-the-flat. The clay is low-pH, highly leached and deficient in nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium, calcium and magnesium.
Extreme edges of garden are planted to squash or "pumpkins" where they will not be shaded by corn and the vines can grow off, into the pastures.
"Corn" is basic three-sisters culture planted between 4000 and 15,000 corn plants per acre depending on whim of the plot's owner. Pole-beans and squash/pumpkins planted approximately 3-to-4 weeks after corn is planted.
The shale beneath the soil is mostly impermeable but there are unpredictable fissures where soil is deeper and moisture is available longer after a rain. Prolonged periods with no rain are rare but the shallow soil and the poor water-holding capacity of the parent bedrock make drought-stress common.
Native trees include upland oak species, shortleaf pine, (formerly) American chestnut and chinquapin, persimmon, shagbark and pignut hickory.
Is the clay being supplemented with something?
ReplyDeleteThat is worth another post.
DeleteThanks for asking
Is it feasible to 'frack' the shale? Perhaps some drilling and something that would E x p a n D the shale a bit rather suddenly without moving things too much?
ReplyDeleteFarmer akinfolk tell me that a layer of clay under your top soil is necessary to keep the water within reach of the roots. I amend the top foot to include a little sand and lots of mulch. Green bags at the hardware store do it fast. Layers of Amazon boxes under wood chips is the longer approach to mulching. Worms love cardboard. To thank you for it they leave behind ... top soil. Roger
ReplyDeleteRoger's comment is similar to what I have "read", in that some amount of clay helps to retain water.
ReplyDeleteYep, the clay would have to be 'augmented'...
ReplyDelete