My part-time job managing The Property presents both a challenge and an opportunity. It is about 40 minutes by road from where I live when the weather is good.
The owners have a small pole-barn on the property and it makes sense for me to have some supplies in that barn: Tools, comfort items, fun items, some food and a way to heat it.
In a perfect world, I would have a way to comfortably spend the night in the barn even if it were -10F outside. Not that I plan on ever NEEDING to do that, but it is nice to have options.
A thought starter
One author very thoughtfully compiled lists of the gear chosen by the winners of the reality show "Alone".
In addition to a full compliment of climate appropriate clothing....
"There are some items that practically everyone takes. These include:
- Axe
- Sleeping bag
- Cooking pot
- Fishing kit
- Ferro rod fire starter
- Multi-tool
- Saw
- Wire
- Knives
Then there is the "prohibited" list that would give the contestant too much advantage and would stretch out the show too long. It is sort of like "poaching". If you really needed to put meat on the table, then you would consider "illegal methods of take". The "prohibited list" is like that. If you really needed to stay away from home for an extended period, then items on this list are worth considering.
- Compass
- Fuel or matches
- Bug spray/mosquito repellant.
- Sunscreen/chapstick
- Sunglasses
- Beauty products
- Map (detailed topographical)
- Unapproved technology (anything with a battery or an engine, eg. cell phones, computers, watches, etc.)
- Professional snares
- Firearms of any kind
- Ammunition
- Explosives or gunpowder
- Animal poison
- Professional fishing rods
- Fishing lures, flies, bait kits
- Fishing traps
- Food or beverage
- Decoys
- Animal calls
- Tree stands
- Professional bows or crossbows
- Scopes of any kind
- Tents or shelters
- Stoves, pressure cookers or other cooking appliances
- Hydration packs
- Fire pits
- Electric or propane lanterns
- Inflatable boats
- Filtration, purification devices, iodine tablets
- Coolers or food storage boxes (except optional bear canister)
The items in bold are ones that I would consider caching just-in-case.
Regarding the firearm and ammo, while I would LIKE to have something available, the risk of a break-in and theft is probably why I would not do that. That is the same reason why I will not leave a $400 chainsaw in the barn. But if I did, it would be an inexpensive .22LR and/or shotgun.
Opinions needed
What kind of storage boxes? Rodents get into the barn. The stringers holding the roof-metal show markings from condensate dripping. I prefer something dingy and anonymous looking.
What else? A small box-stove and stove-pipe through the roof? A few solar panels to keep batteries charged? Come-alongs or hoists for lifting deer carcasses? A 275 gallon IBC filled with potable water? Mosquito netting, hammock, insulated sleeping pad?
Time to play Swiss Family Robinson (but don't put me in the poor-house).
How secure is your location, would boxes that are bolted to the uprights or floor if concrete an option? I did not notice a hammock on your list but that would be a way to keep you off the ground without eating up floorspace.
ReplyDeleteI think that lanterns with wicks that burn kerosene and #1 fuel oil are a much better choice than propane or electric. Much cheaper to use and easier to refuel in bad times and the fuel is far more useful for other things. --ken
ReplyDeleteIBC tote filled with drinking water is nice. As that pole barn is subject to freezing temperatures, I'd use a backhoe to bury that IBC. Also, would reduce the growth of Alge in it. Burying it works well with my Garden watering IBC's.
ReplyDeleteA Robinson Carazo cache or working tools for keeping critters honest? From what you said about this property you're helping the owner fix it up. Not defending a chicken house.
I'd go with the standard 5 gallon plastic bucket for storage, with the following additions - a paint label on the front + top, and paint drizzled on it. They're fairly resistant to critters, and human critters won't be interested in paint.
ReplyDeleteInside them? Non-acidic canned goods, soap and toiletries, basic cooking set, blankets, tarps, and perhaps a blow up mattress. Sewing kit and shoe repair kit, work gloves and basic tools. Water purification, solar battery and headlamp. Rope, duct tape, zip ties and contractor bags - I am used to making do with those items for lots of things. Your list is fairly comprehensive, just putting down what I would start with.
You might consider a 'job box'. Like the kind contractors use to store tools on a job site. If you can secure it adequately so it can't be easily loaded into a truck you could safely store things needed. It's always a trade off between quality of things and the risks of theft.
ReplyDeleteA firewood or brush pile cache off the main path, or better yet a rock pile over a barrel hide. Woody
ReplyDelete% gallon buckets are nice, and work well. Are mostly rodent proof. Making them appear to be paint or oil (above comment)is a good idea.
ReplyDeleteIf yer gonna do food, you gotta make it rodent proof. Buckets aren't rodent proof, but close.
Anything else needs to be sealed in plastic to keep the condensation away...yer gonna have to seal it or it will rust. Think vacuum sealers for most stuff. The more decrepit looking the container, the better. Nothing is secure enough if it is in an unmonitored location. Think possibly burying what you want to keep secure.
Consider and airgun or crossbow. Not as ideal as other pellet throwers, but useful.
Are you caching food/items for just yourself for a day or two or for a SHTF secondary location?
Can you advise regarding a .177 or .22 pellet gun that is VERY robust and has a good trigger and +999fps (.177) or 799fps (.22)?
DeleteIf that is outside of your expertise, can you ask around? I prefer NOT compressed air which leaves "springers" and "nitros".
While I like air rifles I really strongly suggest a simple 22 long barreled bolt action (tube feed is nice) and an ample supply of 22 shorts (all of same brand as they vary quite a bit with point of impact I find).
DeleteQuieter than my quietest air rifle, I can pot a grey squirrel from my 2nd story deck and my too near liberal neighbor (had riding with Biden LARGE Poster) has NO CLUE I shot anything.
Not true with my air rifles. Also, Ft Pounds of the most powerful .177 and 22 air rifles is less than half 22 shorts 29 grain bullet.
You do your part the rabbit and smaller game at 40 yards is in the pot. With standard velocity 22 40 grainers (I prefer Federal myself, very consistent) the point of aim will change a bit and still reasonably quiet.
Not fond of 22 velociraptors and such. Very loud and destroy a lot of meat. Very little penetration, varmint round. Never found them better at a poaching scenario nor better at killing large aggressive dogs (not best choice but...) than standard velocity 40 grainers.
A vintage RWS 34 would be my first suggestion. The rule of thumb for air firearm hunting is '.177 for feathers - .22 for fur' also works. For small vermin removal around the farm, (especially around machinery / housing you don't want to hit with a bullet), the spring piston is a fine tool for removing animals right now vs. a trap which eventually gets around to its demise.
DeleteLouder but variable power options are Benjamin 377 (.177) and 322 (.22). I used to kill mice indoors (non full time occupied ranch house) with a single pump of the 377. Slighter risk of ricochet and mice dead quick. These pumps are much lighter than the springers, which are as heavy as a centerfire rifle, not joking.
The web site Pyramyd Air may help you out deciding what you need.
Hope this helps.
I was gonna suggest Pyramid Air also. I have had pretty good luck with the Gamos, but they are not as robust as I think you are seeking.
DeleteIf you live near bodies of water having fish, a bait cast net is effective if you already know where they are. The really big ones are pretty bulky - 8' - 12' feet ought to be plenty.
ReplyDeleteZip ties and/or wire clothes hangers for quickly binding structure together. Mosquito netting if you will be living / staying in the woods.
3 and 5 gal buckets with gamma seal lids.
ReplyDeleteI would vac seal all individual things going in using a food saver. Then I would pack and seal using oxygen remover packets and moisture absorber packets. Then I would shrinkwrap the entire bucket (or see if I could find pick-ur-length wide enough vac seal bags that would fit the bucket.
As to what I would put in? A few weeks of food (combo of simple food like beans/rice, freeze dried stuff), a few water purification tabs, maybe a lifestraw, knife, can opener, cheap and simple tent. Few change of clothes for you and Quicksilver
I really like the 3 gal buckets as easier to store and move. Label what's in them on the bucket with permanent marker. Also, the gamma seal lids are probably enough on their own 95% of the time. Butttt, having everything individually makes sorting it all out during bad conditions easy and protects against bucket failure or needing to open a bucket and take half the stuff in a sack/backpack.
Spartanfencer
Not every bucket needs a Gamma Seal lid. Only the one you are using at the moment. The others can use regular lids until you open them. This is a much less expensive option, and the "normal" pry off lids are much more robust and less likely to be accidentally unsealed when moved around.
DeleteI prefer homemade fish traps. Gets me "bait" as long as no ice. Will do so with thin ice as I can cut a hole and such.
ReplyDeleteA mess of bait in the fry pan with some onions and potatoes is pretty good eating.
Containers. We use 35 gallon galvanized trash bins for storage in our outbuildings. Nothing fancy, just what we get at the farm store. Tight fitting lids keep the critters out. Not bear proof, but definitely keep coon and possum out.
ReplyDeleteAlso have a couple of 4 foot job boxes. Those are great. Wish i had more of them to hold feed and such. Sit them on a pallet to keep down rust. Chain them to building to deter theft but not theft proof by any means.
Your highlighted list is good. I’d add a 20 gauge shotgun or little single shot 22. Seperate the firing pin and store it elsewhere in your stash.
A couple of 100 watt solar panels in series with a medium sized MPPT charge controller should handle keeping batteries topped off. That’s what we use for ARRL field day. Use good batteries Lithium Iron Phosphate is the current favorite chemistry. Power Queen brand has served us well.
Water filtration would be better than storing bulk water. Paul Martin had a nice write up on a good DIY version on his blog recently.
I didn’t see an am/fm/sw radio receiver on your list. Getting info is key for Swiss Family Robinson adventures. Many good options. I like the panasonic 2400D for am/fm because it runs forever on 4 AA batteries. For short wave pick a modestly priced versions with single sideband so you can listen to amateur radio as well as AM broadcast short wave.
-john
Kaw river valley
Forgot to add tools. Home Depot frequently offers a ryobi tool set for cheap. A reciprocating saw, 5-1/2” circular saw, drill motor, impact driver, and a light. All powered by the same 18volt lithium batteries. Hand to have and cheap enough to stash at the property for quick fixes. I use the heck out of these tools because its just so convenient.
ReplyDeleteAdd an assortment of fasteners of your choice. Holding and lashing is helpful.
I endorse the galvanized cans if under any sort of cover. The handle attachment does not make it weather
ReplyDeleteproof but it KS rodent proof. Buckets would handle the non food storage needs.. Start with the 10 essentials and work up from there.
When filled with 5-lb and 2.5-lb mylar bags of foodstuffs, a 34-gallon "garbage" can weighs 160-170 lb.
DeleteCaulk the handle penetrations. If what you put in them is caustic, line with heavy trash bag. (urea) Roger
Deletepropane and propane accessories Joe!
ReplyDeleteDuh! Duct tape!
ReplyDeletelol, and
DeleteRoll of bailing wire
(3) Tarps 2 mid-sized and one large.
Cheap socket set
Machete
Fire extinguisher
There’s a bit of breaking the bank going on.
MF
Paracord. Spool of 550 @1000 ft runs about $75 and will last for years. Some micro-cord for other jobs. Some smaller runs of glow in the dark or reflective, easy to mark a return trail.
ReplyDeleteWhatever you use for storage, put DampRid in it.
ReplyDelete