Saturday, January 6, 2024

Grab-bag

Noises beneath the hood

Kubota is driving a clunker at the moment. His preferred vehicle requires some expensive repairs.

He was very concerned about some noise he was hearing beneath the hood.

We went for a drive and he was not able to replicate the noise. He said it sometimes happened when he went up the steep apron at the end of a driveway. I bounced the two, front corners thinking it might be the McPherson struts. Still no-joy in replicating the noise.

Opening the hood, I noticed the hood-prop-rod was loose. There was no clip to secure the free end, that is, the end this engages the hood when the rod is in use.

Kubota was very dubious about the prop-rod being the source of the sound but it was the only thing we found. I tied it down with baling twine but that was only because I didn't have any zip-ties in my pocket. I am slipping.....

We don't know what we don't know

Sprite's grandson "T" built a hunting stand in the middle of the pasture Sprite lets me use.

I got a text from her yesterday morning that the cattle back in that paddock were tearing it up. I did missed the text due to my full schedule of naps and flirting with Mrs ERJ.

Sprite followed up with a phone-call which I did get.

Inspecting the damage, the cattle had removed three of the four "X" braces that "T" had installed to stabilize the vertical supports.

"T" is a young man and he was a little unclear on the concept of diagonal bracing of vertical support structures.

The basic idea is that when a structure sways the rectangle formed by the ground, the bottom of the deer-stand and two of the vertical support legs "match-box". If you look at the distance between opposite corners, one distance gets shorter while the other diagonal gets longer when it sways in one direction and vice-versa when it sways back in the other direction.

The most mass efficient method to address "match-boxing" is to install two diagonal, corner-to-corner tension members like aircraft cables. Cables do not function in compression because they are too limp.

A less mass efficient method is to install a single diagonal strut that is stiff enough to function both in tension and compression.

Key point, in either case both ends of the member must be secured closely to the corners of the rectangle the builder is attempting to stabilize.

"T" used 8' 2X4s and the bottom of the stand was 8' across. So the 2X4s were not long enough to go from corner-to-corner.

"T" decided that it would "look right" if he drove a single deck-screw through the top of each 2X4 into the vertical support and then allowed the 8' 2X4 to pivot until the lower end was in contact with the ground.

That was it. Just friction holding the bottom end and a single deck-screw holding the top. It might "look right" but it was not going to work. After looking at the construction details, it was not very surprising that my cows knocked them all to heck-and-gone when they rubbed them.

There, fixed it

Sprite does not charge me any rent to run my cattle on her pastures, I have a pretty good deal and I don't want to mess it up. I stepped up and told her I would take care of it.

I cut two of the 8' 2X4 into four, 4' sections. I lengthened four of the 8' 2X4s so they would span from corner-to-corner as a single, diagonal, tension-compression strut. The only complexity was that I had to join them with a 2' piece I "scabbed" across the joint so the extended 2X stayed in the same plane.

Then, because Sprite was concerned that the cows would destroy that, I wound barbed wire around the base to discourage the cows. Actually, the barbed wire was Sprite's idea. I was going to use some feedlot panels but I liked her idea better. I have lots of scrap barbed wire.

Everything takes time. That burned several hours off the day, especially since it was cold and the batteries on my 12V Black-and-Decker drill and screwdriver are old and tired. I had to go back to the house mid-project and recharge them.

I think it is time to up-grade my drill. It is almost 15 years old and it lacks the torque to spin a 3" long deck screw through yellow pine on a frosty day.

Any recommendations? I am most concerned about my ability to buy replacement batteries at reasonable prices. I had one drill that used a proprietary battery and it became an orphan when that style of battery went out of style. The B&D tool has been a trooper but it owes me nothing.

Zoup

Potato soup inspired by Townsends Youtube channel.

I took a few liberties with the recipe just like any cook would have back-in-the-day. Some carrots. Some celery. A bay-leaf.

I used chicken instead of beef or mutton. It is ironic that I hunt deer and other game and we have 4000 pounds of cattle wandering around, but Mrs ERJ eats a vanishingly small amount of red-meat. It does not agree with her.

So, we make adjustments and move on.

27 comments:

  1. My son has had very good fortune with Dewalt tools and batteries. I’ve heard great things about Milwaukee Tools from tradesmen, but they’re pricey for occasional use.

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  2. For a handy portable drill I like my M12 milwaukee fuel (brushless, not standard). I have done much drilling and even run a 3/4" tapered reamer through 1/2" mild plate steel to enlarge 4 1/2" holes to mount a vise. It did take one battery per hole, but it did it. For screws into wood, look at an impact driver. They beat drills by a wide margin, you can run screws with a little impact driver that a big drill will struggle with.

    Personally the 3 handiest electric tools I have around for general use are: M12 fuel drill, M12 fuel impact driver, and M12 3/8 ratchet (non-fuel, just standard old electric ratchet). You can even use an adapter in the impact driver to run sockets too.

    The batteries are available everywhere, but your best bet is to buy in a local store instead of online. Lots of fake batteries out there online. To get long life out of the batteries, let them cool after use before putting on the charger. Hot batteries don't like to recharge in my experience.

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    1. I second your choices but also get a lot of use from my angle grinder.

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  3. You might want to google turning your 12 volt cordless battery into a corded drill running off your vehicles 12 volt battery.

    I did that with my older Dewalts as the replacement batteries are nasty expensive. Just be aware of overheating your drill. The std batteries bog down but a fresh 12 volt vehicle battery keeps drilling.

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  4. Go with DeWalt or Milwaukee, and don’t just get a drill - get an IMPACT driver.

    Switch to torx head screws. Your joints in your hands/arms/shoulders will thank you profusely.

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  5. Tradesmen may mock but the DIY homeowner is well served by Ryobi. One battery, many helpful tools and the only corporate longevity plan in the industry. I bought a third backup drill from the 80s (blue model) for a dollar at a yard sale. My batteries fired it right up. Try that with any other manufacturer.

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    1. I second your recommendation. As a construction site superintendent, my guys all used different "top" brand name cordless tool systems. I've been using Ryobi for almost 30 years. I have a bunch of their 18V cordless tools and all of them are still running strong. They are also inexpensive.

      Truth be told, all of the tool brands use the same motors, the only difference being the battery packs.

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    2. Ryobi.
      They said that all their 18 volt tools will remain compatible with whatever new battery technology they use.
      And our older tools that started life running on NiCads are working fine with the new batteries.

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    3. Run screaming from Ryobi
      consumer grade 18V tools.

      Bought a combo string trimmer and Leaf blower. 2/3 batteries won't hold a charge .

      1 of the 2 chargers won't charge.

      Never will I ever buy another ryobio anything.


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    4. Forgot to add I bought Dewalt impact drivee and a drill.

      Love them.

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  6. I bought Ridgid brand cordless drills and drivers, because they’re batteries are guaranteed for life.

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  7. My wife and I made a Onion Soup recipe from the Towsends Youtube, it was from the early 19th century I believe. It was very filling and was quite good I thought. We have made Pemmican also that was good . There is a good bit of information on his site.

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  8. I bought my Ridgid 18V combo set (circ saw, drill, impact driver, sawzall and batteries)a good 15 years ago and it came with a lifetime warranty for everything. I had the drill replaced when the clutch went out and have really no other problems with any of them.

    But then again, all major brands are pretty much the same and my major concern would be the price of batteries.

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  9. Makita. Hands down.

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  10. “adjusting recipes”?

    I still follow the, formulated due to financial necessity, ‘student’ approach to recipes – i.e. if you are lacking a certain ingredient, exchanging it for something ‘the same colour’ or ‘beginning with the same letter’ is allowed. That, and I’ve never quite understood the whole culinary measurement scale (what’s half a cup really look like anyway? and the whole tea/table spoon thing just confuses me - says the person with a toolbox containing a full set of inch/metric 'and' whitworths) so I just throw in what looks about right.

    Results … vary. Some friends (of questionable taste) still rave, and apparently crave my ‘pumpkin and liverwurst’ “shepherd’s pie” (yes, I know, deciding to make something when I don't have the most basic parts is ... normal for me "improvisation is a way of life"). On the other hand my ‘marrow-fat pea and cucumber guacamole’ turned out to be both a surprisingly effective alternative to Spackle and, if allowed to ‘sit’ for a week, a good two part epoxy replacement (and … I’m still paying off one friends dental bill).

    Cows, horses and goats display a remarkable engineering ability to locate the one ‘weak-link’ in any fence or structure to focus their attention on (or is that just mine?). And … just don’t start me on the pigs!

    Oh, and I second/third/whatever Makita (18V though).

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  11. Check for a non OEM replacement battery on Amazon, I found one for my Black & Decker that had greater amp hours than the original. the only drawback was the color orange wasn't the same but I was so happy with it and the cost I bought another one. Now it is so convenient to have one working while the other is charging. Bob in B.R.

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    1. I bought an Amazon battery for my 18v Black &Decker drill and was really disappointed, after only a year or so of occasional use, it wouldn't hold a charge. Since I already had some Craftsman battery yard tools(electric chainsaw, pole saw, string trimmer), I went with the same for a new drill (Brushless, 1/2" Drill-driver). Maybe not something a pro would use, but works for me.

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  12. Having BTDT.... Milwaukee is top notch in both performance and purchase price; if your livelihood depends on earning a living with portable power tools, go Red (also because for the pros it's a tax deductible expense, and such tools, if not directly deducted as "operating expense" have a favorably short amortization period). DeWalt runs a close second, and is cheaper. Ryobi and Rigid are less expensive still and perform well which is why homeowners go for them.

    Factory batteries are best, but for the most popular brands Chinesium batteries are available and mostly work. I would not leave anyone's LiOn battery, factory or Chinesium, on a charger unsupervised.

    It comes down to: which battery system do you want to commit to - meaning "married to" - which will be determined by the functionality, quality and variety of tools using that battery system. Few things are more frustrating than a menagerie of a Red (Milwaukee) drill, a Yellow (DeWalt) impact driver, a Green (Ryobi) portable circular saw, a Dark Blue (Bosch) oscillating tool, an Orange (Rigid) portable jigsaw and a Light Blue (Makita) reciprocating saw. Bits and blades may interchange, but each will require its own non-compatible batteries and chargers.

    All brands of battery-powered tools have their pluses and minuses as the engineers compete to out-offer each other, and committing to a brand becomes not unlike to whom one gets married, or at least, enters into a long engagement.

    There is also the old standby of an array of 120 volt tools and a small portable generator. I know of one local deck-garage-porch builder who swears by his muti-branded array array of corded equipment, not least because all will run all day off a single Honda 2000 and just over 2 gallons of gas, and a pair of Hondas can be coupled together to run his portable table saw (which happens to be an older, and barely portable, Delta). He also uses an older Porter-Cable air nailer and a small California Air Tools compressor that, so far, isn't suffering motor trouble from being run by a single Honda. His advantage, of course, is setting up field operations for multiple 10-hour days rather than 30 minutes here and 20 minutes there. I did notice he does use some DeWalt 20v stuff when he's up on a ladder.

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  13. I have both Black and Decker and Harbor Freight (Bauer) cordless tools. The Black and Decker knock off batteries are the cheapest so I bought adapters to use the Bauer batteries in the Black and Decker tools and vice versa. You don't get all of the functionality from the swap, no feedback in terms of overheating, so you have to pay attention, but I do find this useful.

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  14. Ridgid or Milwalkee. Same company. A close third is Ryobi.

    I have the Ridgid family in my too set, only 'cause the "Free Batteries for life"...I'm kinda hard on batteries. Anecdotally, my brother bought a ridgid drill at a garage sale...and the company replaced his batteires no questions asked.

    When you buy a new set, make sure you get the 1/4 inch impact driver, Drills are for making holes, Drivers are for driving screws.

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  15. Here's a pumpkin soup recipe I like, although I expect pumpkins are currently out of season. 4 cups fresh or frozen pumpkin, diced or 4 cups pumpkin guts with the seeds removed. 1 onion diced. 1 garlic clove minced. 1 celery stalk diced or 1/2 teaspoon dried celery flakes. 2 teaspoon chicken bouillon powder. 4 chili peppers chopped (if the chilis are ripe, save the seeds). 1/2 teaspoon black pepper. 4 cups water. Bring to a boil, simmer until pumpkin and onion are soft. Add 1/4 cup cheese sauce or soft cheese. Thicken if wanted by adding quick cook noodles. Cook until noodles are cooked. The onions, garlic, celery, chilis and black pepper counter the sweetness of the pumpkin and the cheese helps moderate the heat of the chilis.

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  16. Yellow or red, pick one. Have never had a yellow battery fail except for contact degradation, open it up, clean and rebend contacts, good to go. One yellow drill spent a bit of time underwater on a deck bridge over a small creek. Timex ...
    Disagree about the impact tool, a brushless 1/2 class drill is capable of driving any reasonable sized screw. Hammer drill function option a plus.
    I'm yellow, have used a friends red stuff, seems fine as well. Nice having a stack of batteries, I have Dewalt chain saws and a string trimmer as well, the suite enhances options in a degraded grid environment.

    East of Paris

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  17. DeWalt has served me well for the past 30 years. Mostly drills, impact drivers. You might be able to buy better, but you'll pay through the nose for it. Had a Bosch before that, but it didn't really hold up.

    Have a Milwaukee small electric chain saw for trimming ... haven't used it enough to form an opinion either way.

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  18. I think baling twine is a better fix for a part that you might have to be able to move. When you need to move it at night and don't have sidecutters in your pocket, then baling twine is much easier to remove.

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  19. Milwaukee makes great equipment. They made it cheap. I believe so they could charge out the nose for batteries in the future. M. is now owned by a company out of Hong Kong. Dewalt has been my favorite for years. They are made in Maryland and South Carolina. Roger

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  20. Only changed to M. on a nephew's recommendation. I will be migrating back to Dewalt as I wear things out or develope new needs. On my older tired Dewalt I have been having batteries rebuilt at Batteries Plus. Roger

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