One of my pet gardening peeves is the myth that "plants that struggle are tougher".
The usual line-of-reasoning is usually some variation of this: "Plants that are not watered will have deeper roots and be more resistant to drought."
It is my studied opinion that grass that was urinated on by cattle stays green much later into dry spells than grass that was not urinated on. The grass growing in the nutrient rich patch is able to grow faster-and-taller and the leaves are able to capture more sunlight and make more carbohydrates.
The myth is blind to the fact that roots require carbohydrates for their structural cells and for respiration. Few leaves means no "excess" carbs to grow roots. It is the same deal with regard to water. Starving plants for water early in the season means that they do not have the resources to invest in roots that penetrate deeply into the ground to mine water and nutrients.
Deep roots can mine moisture stored in the subsoil. In Michigan, corn typically transpires 5"-to-10" more water than falls during the growing season. That moisture is pulled from the subsoil.
If you are gardening in a climate like Michigan then a few key-points must be followed to make your garden more drought resistant:
- Don't over-plant. High densities makes for smaller plants and shorter roots. Higher plant densities means each individual plant has a smaller footprint of soil to mine.
- Control weeds. It isn't just the density of the vegetables that you need to consider. Weeds also compete for water and nutrients.
- GROW those plants when young! Push them! It doesn't take much water to keep small seedlings happy. Add a wee-bit of fertilizer* to the water and the plants will outgrow most problems.
- Spot-water when plants are small so you aren't watering weeds
- Make choices about the trees and bushes around your garden. Tree roots infiltrate your garden and compete with your vegetable plants. A dense row of short trees that are upwind of the garden can be helpful in reducing water losses from evaporation...but make them SHORT trees so they don't shade the garden.
- Control woodchucks, rabbits, deer and other herbivores. A single woodchuck can eat 30' of green bean seedlings in a single session. No leaves results in stunted growth (if they recover) and no vegetables.
Another way of looking at vegetable production is to consider the human-quality food the plants produce is actually the "excess" that they have banked. If you don't supply your plants with generous inputs then there will be no "excess". All of their resources will be used to survive and there will be nothing for your table.
That might be why Marxists invariably starve. They have a deep hatred for "excess" and "profits".
*There are many recipes for organic, soluble fertilizers (compost or manure tea) and there are also organic "fish based" fertilizers that can be purchased.
Plants have to be able to grow deep enough roots to reach underground moisture - until then they need above ground moisture.
ReplyDeleteI wouldn't count on underground moisture for annual plantings, only for trees and longer term plants.
Jonathan
All good advice, thanks!
ReplyDeleteAny advice about which fertilizer for vegetables? I usually stay away from MiracleGro because of the high nitrogen level. Others are so low in nutrients, I can’t tell if they help or not.
ReplyDeleteSouthern NH