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| This is the largest Black Locust I cut this weekend with a 14" diameter at the butt. |
It is still a little bit hung up. It is 12" off the ground 9' from the butt-end and 40" off the ground at 17' and 7' at 25'.
The plan is to wedge a chunk of log between the log and the ground at the 9' mark and to make an "X" cradle at the 17' mark, then to make the cuts. By supporting the log where I am making the cuts I probably will not bind the chain nor will I have the risk of a huge release of potential energy.
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| The White Pine I cut also got hung-up, but that is because the stems were close together. The stump is circled in light blue. You can see that I had to "skate" the log a good 12' before it decided to drop. |
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| Another White Pine. I am "release cutting" so the better trees will have less competition. |
You may be wondering what marvel of modern technology I used to drag those logs 12' over the soft soil.
The answer is that I used an 8' fence post as a pry bar and I used the yellow-handled mattock shown in the middle image as an anchor to keep the other end of the fence-post from skating across the slippery needles.
Every couple of feet I had to use the mattock to clear the needles and dirt that the cut-end of the log was pushing like a dozer-blade.
If you are going to be low-tech, you better be strong and have a high tolerance for sore muscles.
You the man ERJ.
ReplyDeleteJoe,
ReplyDeleteDidn’t you buy a tractor several years ago?
Or did that deal not go through?
Tractors are pretty handy for these kinds of heavy things.
Arkansas Mike
didn't the oldtimers favor black locust for fence posts. Scorch/burn the end that goes in the ground. Resists rot. Bet you should cap it.
ReplyDeleteWell done, and smart to cut on a brace.
ReplyDeleteUse a plunge cut. Bore the bar through the tree about 3" from the "top" of the log, cut downward and through the bottom of the log, pull the bar upward to the bottom of the original bore or "plunge", finish the cut with the top of the bar. Saves a lot of work and pinched bars. Old Alaska trick.
ReplyDeleteThank-you for the information. I will give it a try.
DeleteThe Miracle Drug...Aspirin...
ReplyDeleteMilton
Plastic wedges and dead blow hammers can help with bound chain saws. Or a second or third saw or extra bars and chains can help unbind the first one.
ReplyDeleteI ordered and got a pickaroon/hookaroon (Fiskars 28 inch) from Home Depot about 2 years ago and moving wood by hand has gotten a lot easier. Wish I knew this 40 years ago.
sam
Sounds like a busy day was had. A day of rest well earned fpr recovery.
ReplyDeleteMuch obliged Anon 2:24 am above for the information. Many of our hardwoods down here are a bit 'sappy' and cutting through those with chainsaw or bow saw can be challenging. Working smarter always helps. I wish I could take aspirin, but I'm on blood thinners and those effect the INR number.
Bevel the end of the log so it tries to ride up on the soil instead of digging in and pushing up a berm.
ReplyDelete