Peak temperature beneath our shade trees today was 87F. When Mrs ERJ and I went out today it was seven degrees hotter in the sun, over pavement.
Installing the new Predator 212cc motor on the Troy-Bilt Pony
It was a good project for beneath the the shade trees on a warm day.
When I unboxed the motor I saw that it had the cast aluminum valve cover. According to the Youtube video I watched, that means it is the "hemi" variant. On the whole, if you are not going to modify the motor to soup-it-up, the hemi variant has better intake and exhaust flow and, theoretically, should have slightly cooler head temperatures.
The trip we took was to buy new nuts, bolts, washers and a new belt. I needed to remove the current engine and pulley and belts before I knew what I would need.
The bolts were 2" long, 5/16" coarse-thread. I looked up the torque spec and for "wet" or lubed bolts and washers, it was a meager 8 ft-lbs of torque for an SAE Grade 5 bolt.
I installed the pulley as far out on the shaft as it would go and not have the end of the shaft sub-flush, but the drive and driven pulley still didn't line up. The motor has two round (aka, "net") holes and two slots. I can elongate the holes in the mounting plate beneath the round-holes in the casting and gain about 5mm, almost a 1/4. While not perfect, it will be closer and the belts should live a lot longer.
The original motor had two, counter-rotating shafts. One for forward and and one for reverse. The new motor's shaft aligned with where the old "forward" shaft was so the machine will have "Forward" but no "Reverse" gear. I will have to put it in neutral and use my muscles.
I filled it with oil and put in about a pint of gas into the tank and lit it off. I did not engage the drive (more on that in a bit). I let it run at about 65% speed until it ran out of gas.
The forced air convection from the cooling fan was notably strong. It pushes a lot of air past the cooling fins on the cylinder casting and the fins on the head. That is an EXCELLENT thing. The fins are not "ducted". Ducting makes the airflow more efficient by forcing it into close proximity to the fins but exposed fins are rarely clogged up by mouse nests and chaff and are generally preferred for agricultural applications.
After the run-in, I drained the oil. Then I checked to see if I could budge the plugs on the transmission case. I could!!! One plug was in a port on the top of the casting while another plug was in the side of the casting about 2" above the center-line. Typically, the side port would be the "fill-to" mark. I scrubbed the outside of the casting to remove a decade's worth of grime before cracking them open.
The inside surface of both plugs were as dry as a bone. I spread newspaper and cardboard and turned the tiller on its side and about 8 ounces of dark brown (but clear) lube with a very high viscosity came out. That was good news. At least there was something wet in the transmission.
I added fresh motor oil to the engine but did not add any gasoline. I buttoned up the safety shields and then pushed it under cover.
I ordered GL-4 gear lube, 5/16" round files and a spare belt.
And now we wait...

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