So there I was, doing a bit of back-yard carpentry work.
I decided that I needed some scaffolding to prune the apple trees at The Property. Careful measurements determined that I only needed four additional feet of elevation to do a dandy job trimming the lowest "whorls" of branches.
For those who haven't done this kind of thing. It would seem that an eight-foot tall step-ladder would be the cat's meow for this kind of thing, but you would be wrong.
Operating a chainsaw from a step-ladder has certain limitations. Among other things, you run out of arms and hands to hold onto the ladder, the branches you are trimming and the chainsaw, you don't have a bail-out option AND if a branch drops down and jumps back at you, it will knock you, the running saw and the ladder ass-over-teakettle before you can think, blink or fart.
A short platform offers more options. I can work from one end and remove most of the overhanging mass. Then I can shorten the horizontal to the length my pruning plan and the tree's natural branching dictate.
Fast-forward
My plan is to have a platform 4' square, 4' above the ground.
Unlike some of my other projects, I decided to cut the ends of the studs defining the perimeter of the platform's deck on 45 degree angles (i.e. picture-frame cuts). And therein lies the story. (At this point Roger is chuckling. He already knows what is going to happen)
Placing the 8' long 2-by-4 upon yon picnic table and carefully marking out my cuts, I proceeded to produce two, 4' long sticks with 45s on the ends. I then repeated the exercise with a second, 8' long 2-by-4.
Legs were cut. Diagonal bracing was added. Sub-assemblies were joined together. Another trip was made to the local lumber yard and 5/4" treated lumber was purchased in 8' lengths. The treating not only changes the color to gold but apparently adds to its value such that it IS gold.
Now for whatever reason, the picture in my head was that the exterior dimension was a skoosh less than 4'. Having seen decking that was nailed along the extreme, cut end and seen it splitting-out, I decided it would be extra-special-spiffy if I cut my planking 1.5" longer than the length they were spanning so the deck-screws would have some meat behind them rather than their gripping the ends of the planks by the fingernails, so to speak.
I pulled out the first 8' 5/4 treated and used the top of the platform and a scrap length of 2-by to measure the "length + 1-1/2"" and penciled my mark. I did not use my measuring tape because, like a ninny, I had laid it down instead of putting it into my pocket or clipping it to my belt. (Roger is cackling with glee. "Get the danged yo-yo" he is shouting at the computer.)
I went back to the picnic table and made the cut. Then, because I KNEW it was less than 4', I used the shorter piece to mark off the longer piece and I reduced it to the length of the shorter piece.
I repeated the same with the second piece of golden, Ponderosa Pine planking.
Lacking any better place to put them, I carried them over to the scaffolding and laid them on the framework that defined the top of the platform....
...and they were too short.
They weren't just 1.5" too short. They were 2" too short!
When you cut "picture-frame" corners, the outside dimensions grow.
Creating a word-picture of why-that-happens is difficult but I will give it a shot.
If you took two, 8' 2-by-4s and cut them into 4' lengths and them fastened them into a frame, you would create a rectangle with outside dimensions of 48"-by-51" because one dimension would grow by 2X the thickness of the wood (2-by-4s actually being 1.5"-by-3.5")
To make a true 48"-by-48" square frame, you would have to cut two of the sticks to 45", throwing away the equivalent of four, 1.5" SQUARES by 3.5" long prisms of wood.
When you cut "picture-frame" cuts, you end up throwing away 4 TRIANGULAR prisms measuring 1.5"-by-1.5" by 2.25" by 3.5" long. That is, if you aren't thinking ahead (like I wasn't).
It was painful (expensive) to mess-up the two 5/4 decking planks but I will surely find a use for them.
The fix is to scab a 2-by-4 inside of the frame. Buy two more 5/4 decking planks and cut them to 48" lengths and proceed as before. All "shortage" of decking will be chased to the scabbed end of the platform.
Just because I blog doesn't mean I don't make lots of mistakes. One of my reasons for remaining anonymous is because I have more latitude to share my opportunities-to-learn.
I always lay it out on paper.
ReplyDeleteThen just to be irritating, I build the mirror image of what I drew.
Something odd in my visualization. I have wasted more material and drywall and such than what my truck weighs....
You ain't the only one.
If you can spare the material, put a railing around two sides.
Yeah, I was thinking of using stake-pockets for the railing to make them detachable. Good suggestion.
DeleteI need to be able to move this thing around the orchard.
Would it be impossible or impractical to back a pickup to the tree and stand on the open bed?
ReplyDeleteThe orchard is still congested with the trees nominally planted 15' apart in the rows and the rows 25' apart. It will become more congested as the limbs get dropped.
DeleteI am only slightly stronger than the average 65 year-old man. Fortunately for me, God compensated for that by making me retarded. I think I can muscle the platform around significantly faster than I can position the truck.
And that is aside from the hazard of scraping up the truck, woodchuck holes, tire-puncture risks and so on.
For my own safety in this situatio I purchased a gas powered pole saw. Stihl kombi with two extensions is 14’ long.
ReplyDeleteRyobi has a cheaper version.
I was considering electric versions of the same thing. Maybe not for the stoutest limbs (over 2" diameter") but much of the cutting isn't really big stuff.
DeleteAny recommendations for brands and models. I would need a couple of batteries to go with it.
Since I chose the Dewalt ecosystem years ago, I treated myself to a Dewalt pole saw - three sections and reasonably well balanced for this 70-ish frame. Like that it has a chain oiler, dislike that it leaks. Chain stops when I let go, so only a hard-hat for my limb-trimming adventures. Works well for me to reach 20+ feet to get the low-hanging widow-maker dead pine branches up to 3 inches. Battery outlasts my ability to work.
Delete-RB in flyover country
I've had good service from the Greenworx 40V 8' pole saw. Our area has a lot of spiny bush / small tree growth that is tailor made for pole saws. Too spiny and dense to get to inner limbs, a pole saw makes it far less bloodless for us. I also bought a chainsaw from same firm so the spare battery charged up is good insurance. A fully charged battery vs. hardwood limbs is about 45 minutes of cutting time. Enough dropped to where when it is all hauled away, I'm exhausted. I'm soon to be 62 so know 1st hand I ain't the guy I used to be, lol. I still have hopes of future grandkids (married late in life) so I'm not out to prove anything to anybody.
DeleteJust my experience - I hope you find your solution to the problems.
I was out using my 110v electric chainsaw on a pole.
DeleteFor the first time, I spotted a chain oiler on it. I filled it with oil and got a massive oil leak all over everything.
Only cut a few limbs that day. I'm going to use motorcycle chain lube on it for the next effort.
I will be buying a battery powered model when this one gives up the ghost, should I out-last it.
I have used both the Skil and the Dewalt electric pole saws. Both are excellent, the skil has more power but eats batteries (I think the chain moves faster) the Dewalt is good as well
DeleteWhat cordless battery powered tool system do you use? Buy on that matches the constellation of batteries you already own.
For the mot part, the saws are all decent, and two batteries is all YOU will be able to work through in a day.
Be sure to make sure that the saw can go 20 feet or so in the air. More than that is unworkable, but that covers most of the jobs yer gonna do.
I have a Makita pole saw and I really like it. Gotta have a couple extra batteries and when they are pooped out I am too.---ken
ReplyDelete***Mumbles about mitre cuts and geometry and sketches and chuckling about other's mistakes, and not mentioning own self-crafted disasters known only to God, and the smirking hardware clerk that charts the frequency and content of purchases plotted against visible desperation in customer-knucklehead's erratic behaviour....****
ReplyDeleteRoger is just smiling 'cause he has been there. What you need is a wood stretcher. And ... measure twice, cut once. Pass the salt someone!
ReplyDeleteAnd ... what I do is cut a 1.5 by .5 rabbit in the long side of one end so I can screw it together diagonally across the grain and not straigt into the grain. Built some "reuseable" footing collars. Hinges. Hinge screws popped out on the first use because one side was straight into the grain end. The real lesson there was don't buy an 1876 house with a missing foundation. Roger.
ReplyDeleteMeasure twice. Cut once.
ReplyDeleteThis is what they make manlifts for.
ReplyDeleteRoger's third thought is there is nothing wrong with a rectangle and those boards will fit turned the other way...
ReplyDelete