From a commercial, economic perspective there is absolutely no comparison. Dwarf trees produce income (to service debt) within two or three years while "full-sized" trees start later and ramp-up production more gradually than dwarf trees.
For most home-growers, semi-dwarf trees neatly split the difference between the economic advantages of the dwarf trees and the low maintenance of the standard trees. An added advantage is that most fruit on a semi-dwarf can be harvested while standing on the ground. The smaller trees offer the ability to plant a portfolio of varieties or different species. In the space a fully mature McIntosh apple takes up, you can plant six dwarf trees or 3 semi-dwarf trees.
Further advantages of planting multiple, smaller trees is that you can have a symphony of fruits ripening at different times and avoid an untimely deluge. Also, if your one standard-sized tree dies you get no fruit. If one-of-three semi-dwarf trees die you have a drop in production but you can replant and still have most of your production while the new tree fills its allotted space.
All that said, there are places for "standard" fruit trees. In the typical orchard, there are some varieties of apples (like Hazen and Wealthy) that stay small even on standard roots. Most Asian pears also fall into that category and so do peaches.
In a "forest" setting, fruit trees are typically edge species. If you are so inclined, there is nothing wrong with planting the edges of your wood-lot with full-sized apples and pears and chestnut trees. Because of the time-constraints of putting a small-holding to bed for the winter, it is best to choose very late maturing varieties that hang well on the tree. That way they will be waiting for you when you get a break in your other chores. Those kinds of fruit tend to store well in a root-cellar (with a low investment in your time compared to canning) or cider/juice (fermented or not).
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| Image credit Permaculture Visions |
If you are into Permaculture, I am describing a Zone 4 or Zone 5 where you will visit it maybe 10 times throughout the year.
Three varieties of apples that fit-the-bill include Golden Russet, Keepsake and GoldRush. Or you can plant seedlings and thin out the ones that don't meet your management objectives.
Many years ago, Ed Laivo, who was then the head propagator at Dave Wilson Nurseries, penned an article on dwarf/semidwarf/standard rootstocks, on the premise that people had no clue... they knew about pygmys and ponies, but really nothing about fruit rootstocks and size.
ReplyDeleteEven dwarfs here reach 8-10 ft. Typical catalog description for most semi-dwarf trees say something like 12-18 ft... that's taller than a one-story home; you may need a bucket truck.
Standard rootstock... tree will be as big as an apartment complex... please purchase additional property.
His take-home message was that ultimately, YOU are in charge of how big your fruit trees get. Prune, Prune, PRUNE!
Yes. Absolutely true. And some rootstocks and scion-varieties are much easier to keep to a given size.
DeleteOne problem I encountered was that my failure to limit the height of the trees caused the graft to break during a late-summer thunder-storm.
There are LOTS of good reasons to prune. But that happens downstream of the decision to plant a tree(s).
Interesting, I wasn't aware of the 'plot size' issues, thanks!
ReplyDeleteAnn Ralph wrote Grow a Little Fruit Tree, which advocates Summer Solstice pruning to keep trees small, rather than dwarf root stocks. https://www.motherearthnews.com/organic-gardening/small-fruit-trees-zm0z15onzdel/
ReplyDeleteI will say that dwarf trees are boon for small property dwellers (and apartment dwellers; I am half tempted to try a small citrus tree here).
ReplyDeleteI have recently become enamored with ruby red grapefruit.This past June I started seeds from saved from the fruits. After germination I planted 4 seeds. One "tree" survived and is now about 5 inches tall. My next batch of seeds saw 3 more seeds germinate. My tree and the 3 starts have now been moved indoors with hopes of them surviving the winter. It has been my experience that most of the grapefruit I buy have tiny little seeds. Only 1 in more than 50 have a pip that I would have any confidence in and those that do have good sized pips usually have 2-4 in the same grapefruit. My completely meaningless numbers have me eating a grapefruit almost daily,for 9 months and getting 9 seeds.Part of the reason the numbers don't mean anything is I only buy 2 or maybe 3 every 2 or 3 days. If I bought all the grapefruit and checked them all for seeds that might give me a figure that would mean more ....but leave me with too many to eat before they would go bad. I did find a place online that would sell me 5 seeds at about $2 a seed.and others that wanted to sell a plant in the neighborhood of $70. My latitude is 2 or 3 degrees south of Eaton rapids so trying to grow a tropical fruit is a bit of a crap shoot and I'm not much of a gambler.
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