 |
| The winch for lifting deer out of pickup-beds was installed this past week. It is rated for 1600 pounds and (according to the manual) requires 45 pounds of force on the handle suggesting a 35:1 multiplier. The top of the step-ladder is 8' above the ground. |
 |
| I may have been a bit generous in the clearance between the handle and the bottom chord of the truss. It is 4". I am more than a little bit proud of the rub-molding on the bottom. It is Red Oak and a 1/2" radius. After a long day of hunting we don't always precisely position the deer EXACTLY beneath the truss. |
Yeah, I know. ELECTRIC hoists are a thing. But the pole barn is not wired. Maybe some day, but not today. Manual works.
They can also double as boat hangers off season for more floor space,thought that what I was liking at originally.
ReplyDeleteHmmmm....,1600 pound deer,you got a nuclear reactor out that way?
70lb to 150lb dressed.
DeleteShould taste nice,remember,backstrap is bad for you,contact me for safe removal!
DeleteI did not practice enough with bow last few months so pass this season,tis styrper season though,good enuff with the caster!
You installed the winch body so that it requires the operator to stand on a ladder? Perhaps you should give this another think.
ReplyDeleteIt received multiple thinks already.
DeleteMounting the winch on the wall would require a stand-off so the handle will not hit the sheet-metal cladding and about 30 feet of line and multiple pulleys.
Current practice is to use a come-along while standing on a ladder and that purely sucks.
Out of respect for your concerns, I will not ask you to use the device.
I decided to go with a small chain hoist. No regrets.
DeleteGot it at Harbor Freight for about-IIRC $30. That was a while ago, but even with our country's "Built Back Better" pricing now, I'd take a look.
The elimination of a ladder in any operation has always been a plus for me.
Out of respect for your concerns, I will not ask you to use the device.
ReplyDeleteMade my Day!
With a front trailer hitch and a robust bullbar, one could hook the hoist line from there, over the top pulley and down to the load in the bed, and roll forward. No ladders or winching. This is constructive laziness.
ReplyDeleteThat is a creative solution!
DeleteOne nice thing about this kind of winch is the ease of engaging and disengaging the anti-reverse ratchet dog.
Your method, admitted darned clever, would still entail tying off the pull rope or adding a second rope to secure the carcass.
The layout and dimensions of the barn come into play. The barn is about 30' across and the preferred place to hang the deer is about 6' inside the sliding door. Permanently mounting a winch on the sliding door would make it impossible to open. Mounting it on the opposite side at 5' means 5' more to the truss, another 24' to where the deer hangs and then ANOTHER 12' to the floor (10' plus some slop to either loop around antlers or if deer is not directly under the last pulley.
Winches that come with 40' of cable are out of my price range and I didn't want to start joining lengths of cable.
Yes, the geometry of the setup is vital. The lifting line from vehicle to load must be swigged up taut.
DeletePrusik knots, or whatever hitch the sailors used to use to attach a messenger line between capstan and anchor warp, could be useful research. Might allow you to winch from ground level...
Another useful skill for a person needing move heavy loads alone in austere conditions is the flipflop winch:
https://blog.woodland-ways.co.uk/others/the-mighty-flip-flop-winch/
Laziness is the mother of invention, not necessity.
ReplyDeleteSo I would think in terms of structure and look at the web of the truss. There is tension and compression. There is also a rotational issue. I would add to the web and I would make sure I had 6 #10 3" screws in each connection point. Merely parroting here. I am no engineer. But I hung out with a good one (structural). And I have paid an engineer (forensic structural) to tell me how to fix my truss. Excuse me, my building's truss. I might also take a solid, clean 12"x12" 1/2 inch piece of playwood and screw it over the old attachment points. Glue and 10 truss head screws, 1 1/4" long (Simpson). Roger
ReplyDelete